1. When mowing, the key to success is little and often - 'little' in this case meaning not too closely. Light cutting encourages the grass to produce extra shoots, and stunts weeds and coarse grasses. Most lawnmowers offer the facility of raising or lowering the height of cut. Mower blades need to be set at different levels according to the weather and amount of growth.
2. To produce the sought-after striped effect, you simply cut the grass in parallel lines, mowing alternate lines in opposite directions. Each time you mow, remember to work at right angles to the direction of the previous cut; north-south one week; east-west the next.
3. Before you start cutting, make sure that the grass is as dry as possible and free from surface litter. Lightly brush off dew or rain, wormcasts and dead leaves. When cutting the grass, you should always push the mower forwards steadily. Do not pull the machine to and fro and try not to lean heavily on the handle.
4. Clippings are best collected and removed - unless you mow very frequently. Allowing them to lie on the surface of the grass encourages worms and diseases and you'll probably find clippings all over your carpets too.
5. As a general rule, in Summer you should cut the grass at least once a week, preferably twice if you can manage it. Do not mow too closely or the colour and texture of the grass will deteriorate.
During droughts and in the Spring and Autumn months, mowing once a week is sufficient.
6. Apart from mowing, your lawn will require feeding, weeding and occasionally watering to maintain healthy growth. To produce a flourishing lawn you need soil which has the right balance of plant foods like nitrogen, potash, phosphorous and lime. Buy an inexpensive soil testing kit if you want to know the exact composition of the soil and which nutrients (if any) are lacking.
7. The average lawn will benefit from an annual Spring application of fully balanced fertiliser. Fertilisers not only encourage the grass to grow faster but also more densely. As a result, weeds and moss are crowded out and the lawn retains its good, even green colour. Apply fertiliser when the grass leaves are dry and the soil is moist for the best results. Water the lawn if no rain falls within 48 hours.
8. For small lawns, weeding by hand is the most effective means of tackling the special rosette or matt kind of lawn weeds, or you can 'spot' treat individual weeds with a recommended weed killer. For a larger lawn, use a 'broad spectrum' type of weed killer which will destroy a wide range of weeds. You could also use a combined weedkiller/fertiliser mixture.
9. We usually receive sufficient rainfall in this country to maintain a green healthy lawn. If the weather is particularly dry and the grass begins to lose its bright green appearance, occasional watering is beneficial. A good soaking once a week is what you should aim for. Dampening the surface causes more harm than good - the earth should be soaked to a depth of at least 4 inches. A revolving sprinkler gives the best coverage.
Classic Lawns are a respected garden machinery [http://www.classic-lawns.co.uk/] retailer, specialising in lawn mowers [http://www.classic-lawns.co.uk/acatalog/roller.html], teak garden furniture and metal garden furniture.
Article provided by Peter Mulcock
2. To produce the sought-after striped effect, you simply cut the grass in parallel lines, mowing alternate lines in opposite directions. Each time you mow, remember to work at right angles to the direction of the previous cut; north-south one week; east-west the next.
3. Before you start cutting, make sure that the grass is as dry as possible and free from surface litter. Lightly brush off dew or rain, wormcasts and dead leaves. When cutting the grass, you should always push the mower forwards steadily. Do not pull the machine to and fro and try not to lean heavily on the handle.
4. Clippings are best collected and removed - unless you mow very frequently. Allowing them to lie on the surface of the grass encourages worms and diseases and you'll probably find clippings all over your carpets too.
5. As a general rule, in Summer you should cut the grass at least once a week, preferably twice if you can manage it. Do not mow too closely or the colour and texture of the grass will deteriorate.
During droughts and in the Spring and Autumn months, mowing once a week is sufficient.
6. Apart from mowing, your lawn will require feeding, weeding and occasionally watering to maintain healthy growth. To produce a flourishing lawn you need soil which has the right balance of plant foods like nitrogen, potash, phosphorous and lime. Buy an inexpensive soil testing kit if you want to know the exact composition of the soil and which nutrients (if any) are lacking.
7. The average lawn will benefit from an annual Spring application of fully balanced fertiliser. Fertilisers not only encourage the grass to grow faster but also more densely. As a result, weeds and moss are crowded out and the lawn retains its good, even green colour. Apply fertiliser when the grass leaves are dry and the soil is moist for the best results. Water the lawn if no rain falls within 48 hours.
8. For small lawns, weeding by hand is the most effective means of tackling the special rosette or matt kind of lawn weeds, or you can 'spot' treat individual weeds with a recommended weed killer. For a larger lawn, use a 'broad spectrum' type of weed killer which will destroy a wide range of weeds. You could also use a combined weedkiller/fertiliser mixture.
9. We usually receive sufficient rainfall in this country to maintain a green healthy lawn. If the weather is particularly dry and the grass begins to lose its bright green appearance, occasional watering is beneficial. A good soaking once a week is what you should aim for. Dampening the surface causes more harm than good - the earth should be soaked to a depth of at least 4 inches. A revolving sprinkler gives the best coverage.
Classic Lawns are a respected garden machinery [http://www.classic-lawns.co.uk/] retailer, specialising in lawn mowers [http://www.classic-lawns.co.uk/acatalog/roller.html], teak garden furniture and metal garden furniture.
Article provided by Peter Mulcock